Day 45
Start: 658.1 End: 682 Total: 24
I woke up at 6am with my sleeping bag decently frozen and I was in a cloud. I could hear the wind ripping and roaring all around me. I drank some of my coffee and ate my pop tart then started hiking.
I immediately went around the backside of the mountain and was much more protected by wind and emerged from the cloud for a bit. I had two miles of climbing and it felt like it took forever. I passed the 2 spots I could’ve made it to the night before and in hindsight I would’ve pushed to the second spot. It was pretty protected from wind and I would’ve started the day with the climb done.
I started the descent and once again emerged from the cloud and could see the cloud line. I made it down to a stream but still had enough so I only filled up .5 liters since it wasn’t flowing super great.
The sun came out briefly and I wasn’t sure what the day was going to look like so I took another break to let my sleeping bag dry out a bit in the sun. It dried off pretty quick and I was hiking again within 10 minutes.
I thought I had a little climb ahead of me but it turned out to be quite big and felt like it took a while. As soon as I got to the other side it started flurrying. I could see my next climb and the top of that mountain was covered in a thick layer of clouds.
I made it down into the valley and before stopping for more water took a micro break to put on my rain gear as the snow was melting upon touching down on me and my backpack. At the stream I made it a quick lunch, water refill break as I mentally prepped for the snow storm that was awaiting me at the top of the next climb.
The climb was agonizing. It felt so steep and I was tired from so many days of walking big mileage alone. I was taking my time, feeling a bit sorry for myself. I was nearing the top when I heard the first rumble of thunder. That snapped me out of my mood. I knew I had to get up and over the ridge as fast as I could. This was no place to be in a thunderstorm. I started hiking faster than I knew I could.
Soon enough I made it to the top but still had 4 miles of hiking along the ridge before I descended. Luckily it seemed the thunder was stuck on the other side of the mountain, but on the side I just crossed over to was a blizzard. The trail was covered in snow and it was coming down quite fast with strong winds blowing me.
Eventually it let up a bit and the sun even poked its head through. I took advantage of the pause to stop and have a snack, relieved that I was about to descend and seemingly made it through the storm. I started hiking and the clouds and snow blew back in, stronger this time. The snow and wind were so intense and blowing directly into my face.
I just had to keep going I kept telling myself. The trail was covered in a couple inches of snow and everything had a layer of snow on it. It was beautiful but I wanted to be out of it. I eventually got low enough and the snow stopped. Once I made it all the way down I looked back at where I had come from and it looked like blue skies up there.
It was a long 3 miles to where I wanted to camp that night. I considered going further to make the day after easier but quickly ditched that option as I started hiking and realized how much I just wanted to be done. I made it to a small creek and found a flat spot nearby. I set up my tent as it was starting to snow again. I got my water for the night and morning, hung the line for my bear bag and crawled into my tent. I put in warm and dry clothes and made myself a hot breakfast essential. I was so thankful to be protected from the snow and in warm clothes. I filtered my water for the next day, did some writing, made dinner, hung my food and went to bed. I would make it to Kennedy Meadows the next day!
Day 46
Start: 682 End: 703 Total 21.7
I work up tired, sore and not wanting to get out of my tent at a whole new level. It was cloudy & windy outside and my sleeping bag was moist. I got myself up with promises of allowing myself to sleep in as much as I wanted the following day. Just one last day of hiking before taking a few weeks off for some side quests while some of the snowy sierras melt off.
I crawled outside, got my bear bag down, prepped my coffee and slowly gathered my belongings. After 5 days of a walking meditation without any sort of audio I decided to listen to some music which helped a ton getting going and doing my first and only climb of the day. It was about 6 miles and 3000 feet of elevation but felt pretty gradual.
Before I knew it I was at the top and heading towards blue skies while the clouds were trapped behind me. At the top of the pass I could see some cloud covered peaks and I knew one of them was Mt. Whitney and the others were part of the Sierras. They sure looked like they were under a lot of snow.
The down hill part felt like it took forever and it didn’t help that I kept looking for rocks to pick up to make into earrings or necklaces. I finally finished the descent and emerged into a large flat meadow where I would walk through for the remaining miles. I was going to filter some more water but realized I still had 2 L left. It was such a chilly morning I had barely drank any water.
I stuffed a couple burritos in my mouth and kept going. I switched over to the audiobook “Anna Karenina” that I’ve been listening to the entire trail to lock in and cruise the remaining 9 miles. The trail stayed right around 6000 feet and weaved through giant boulders and forests.
After a couple hours I arrived at the South Fork River. The trail followed it for a bit before breaking off. I passed a good swimming spot but was in a rush to get to Kennedy Meadows. I was sore, tired and just wanted to be done for the day. I regretted not stopping and swimming, I thought about what was the big rush to get there. I decided to backtrack a quarter mile to the good swimming spot I had found. I took a dip in the river and dried off in the sun. Suddenly feeling a lot better. There truly was no rush, the point of this whole thing is to enjoy my time so I’m glad I slowed down enough to realize that and treat myself a bit.
After I dried off I put my clothes and shoes back on and kept on my way. Feeling refreshed, revived and ready to cruise the last 3 miles. It was a peaceful and chill stroll to the road where I then walked .7 miles to the general store.
It’s common knowledge that when you arrive at the general store the other hikers clap for you upon your arrive. Being so early and not having seen any northbound hikers for the last 6 days, I was doubtful I would get my applause. I walked up and saw a couple figures on the porch. One of them rang the bell and the two owners of the general store came out and joined the other two on the patio and clapped for me as I walked up. It was such a nice feeling to have finally made it to Kennedy Meadows, where the next leg of my journey would begin, the long awaited Sierras.
I got up to the porch and another hiker introduced himself to me as Sherpa, and the other person was the cook for Kennedy Meadows, hiked in 2013 and went by the name Sweet Potato.
I chatted for a bit but knew there were more hikers 3 miles down the road at Grumpy Bears so I got a ride down there. I took a shower and ate a giant burger and got a well deserved and way over priced beer. Reaper and Stumbles, the couple from Germany who hiked the AT last year were there as well as hikers named Cold Plunge from the Netherlands and Tardy, an 18 y.o from Belgium.
Cold Plunge & Tardy would be planning to go into the Sierras with a group on May 1st. Stumbles and Reaper would be taking a couple weeks off and returning there. There were only two people who we knew of that went into the Sierras and they posted on a Facebook group that it’s been very difficult and they’ve been waking up at 1am to start hiking while the snow was still frozen. They were the first people in so they had no tracks to follow.
My friend Mikaela would pick me up the next day and we would road trip to Colorado for a highlining speed competition, then I would go back to Salt Lake City for a week or two. My boyfriend got some time off work so he would drive me back to Kennedy Meadows and join me in the Sierras for a couple weeks!
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